Autumn in Japan: When and where to see the leaves

From mid-September to early December, depending on the region. Hokkaido's Daisetsuzan mountains turn first in mid-September, Tohoku and the Japan Alps follow in October, Nikko and Hakone color from mid-October into November, Kyoto and Tokyo usually peak from mid-November to early December, and Kyushu's cities finish last. These are typical windows; each year can run a week or more early or late.

It depends on where you are going. October suits Hokkaido, Tohoku, the Japan Alps and the upper parts of Nikko, with thinner crowds. November suits Kyoto, Tokyo, Nara, Kamakura and Kanazawa, whose color usually peaks in the second half of the month. Pick the region first and the month follows.

Usually the second half of November. The northern hills around Kurama and Kibune tend to turn a little earlier, and some gardens hold color into early December. Japan Meteorological Corporation gives a normal date of December 5 for Kyoto's reference maple, but well-known temples on the city's edges are often at their best before that.

Late November to early December. The ginkgo trees turn yellow first, then the maples in gardens such as Rikugien, Shinjuku Gyoen and Koishikawa Korakuen. For earlier color within a day trip, Nikko and Hakone peak weeks before central Tokyo.

September is still warm and humid, with Kyoto averaging a 29°C (85°F) high and typhoons most frequent around Japan. October brings highs in the low 20s°C (low 70s°F), though it is Tokyo's wettest month on average. November is crisp, with Tokyo and Kyoto averaging about 17°C (63°F) by day and 8-9°C (high 40s°F) at night, based on Japan Meteorological Agency 1991-2020 normals.

Four to nine months ahead for a stay during the second half of November, and six to twelve months for a top-tier ryokan. As a rule of thumb, have late-November rooms in Kyoto or Hakone confirmed by about July.

Go earlier and further north. Tohoku's Oirase Gorge and Lake Towada usually peak from mid to late October, Kamikochi in the Japan Alps in October, and Hokkaido's Daisetsuzan from mid-September, all with far smaller crowds than Kyoto in late November. Within Kyoto itself, the first hour after opening is the quietest time anywhere.

Silver Week is a run of public holidays in late September that forms only in years when Respect for the Aged Day and Autumnal Equinox Day fall with a single day between them, so that day also becomes a holiday. It is rare. In most years those two holidays still create one or two busy long weekends, so book trains and rooms early if your dates include them.

Many travelers rate it as highly. Autumn color lasts longer, about ten weeks nationwide against roughly a week or two of peak cherry blossom in each city, so it is easier to time. The weather in October and November is also more settled for walking than early April.

The second half of November in Kyoto and Tokyo is one of the two most expensive and heavily booked periods of the year, alongside cherry blossom season. September and early to mid-October are noticeably cheaper, before the color reaches the popular regions.